Barichara

Barichara is, in my view, the best-kept colonial town in Colombia: white houses with coloured doors and windows, tiled roofs, streets paved with sandstone and, on weekdays, a quiet that feels from another era. It’s in the department of Santander, at about 1,340 metres, on the edge of the Suárez river canyon, and 45 minutes from San Gil, Colombia’s adventure-sports capital. I’d allow 1-2 days: one for the town and one for the Camino Real, the old stone trail that leads down to the village of Guane. Here’s how to get there, what to see, how to walk the Camino Real and where to stay.

How to get to Barichara

1. From San Gil: local Cotrasangil buses leave San Gil’s small local bus station, the Terminalito (Carrera 10 and Calle 17). The ride takes about 45 minutes and costs 6,000-7,600 pesos depending on the source; buses run every 30-60 minutes, roughly from 6 am to 8 pm.
2. From Bogotá: bus to San Gil in 6-8 hours, then the local bus to Barichara. Companies on the Bogotá-Bucaramanga route stop in San Gil.
3. From Villa de Leyva: about 5-6 hours in total, with one or two bus changes (via Tunja or via Barbosa). It’s the stop after Villa de Leyva on the Central Andes itinerary.
4. By air: the nearest airport is Palonegro in Bucaramanga, with flights from Bogotá, Medellín and other cities. From Bucaramanga to San Gil it’s about 3 hours by bus, on a road that crosses the Chicamocha canyon.

To compare buses and domestic flights, read getting around Colombia.

What to see in Barichara

Barichara was founded in 1705 and in 1978 its historic centre was declared a national monument. Many houses are built from tapia pisada, hand-rammed earth, and whitewashed with lime. You can walk around the whole town in half a day, ideally at a slow pace:

• The square and the cathedral: the Parque Principal is the heart of town, dominated by the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, built from golden sandstone.
• The chapels: the Santa Bárbara chapel, at the top of town, and the Jesús Resucitado chapel, next to the small cemetery, where the tombs are decorated with stone carvings.
• The Mirador: a lookout on the edge of town with views over the Suárez river canyon and the mountains of Santander. It’s the place for sunset.
• The streets: the best thing about Barichara is wandering its paved streets, looking at the coloured doors, craft workshops and courtyards full of bougainvillea.
• Santander food: here you’ll find cabrito (roast kid goat), pepitoria and, in spring, hormigas culonas, toasted ants. You’ll find them in the guide to Colombian food.

The Camino Real from Barichara to Guane

The Camino Real is an old paved trail linking Barichara to the village of Guane, through a landscape of dry hills, cacti and canyon views. It was a trade route even before the Spanish arrived, and in the 19th century it was rebuilt by the German engineer Geo von Lengerke.

• Length and time: sources give between 5.5 and 8 km, depending on the starting point; at a relaxed pace it takes 2-3 hours, almost all downhill.
• Difficulty: easy to moderate. The stones can be slippery and the sun is strong: bring at least a litre and a half of water, a hat and sunscreen, and wear shoes with a good grip.
• Start: the trail begins on the edge of town; ask your hotel or on the square for directions.
• In Guane: a tiny village with a square, a church and the paleontology and archaeology museum, with marine fossils and artefacts of the Guane culture (entry was about 5,000 pesos according to older sources).
• Getting back: there are few buses a day from Guane to Barichara. Check the times before you set off, or come back by taxi or mototaxi; walking back up is possible, but tiring in the heat.

If you’d rather not go alone, you can walk the Camino Real with a local guide.

A 2-day itinerary

1. Day 1 – arrive from San Gil, walk around town, see the cathedral and chapels, and watch the sunset from the Mirador.
2. Day 2 – Camino Real to Guane early in the morning, visit the museum, return to Barichara and rest in the afternoon, or leave for San Gil.

With an extra day, stay in Barichara and go to San Gil for rafting or the Juan Curí waterfalls.

Where to stay in Barichara

Where	Pros	Cons
Historic centre	colonial houses turned into boutique hotels, everything on foot	more expensive, book ahead for weekends
Edge of town and surroundings	canyon views, peace and quiet, often with a pool	a bit of an uphill walk to the square
San Gil	cheaper, convenient for adventure sports	a less attractive town, you miss the evening in Barichara

Barichara is generally more expensive than San Gil, especially for a bed in the historic centre. At weekends and on public holidays many visitors arrive from Bogotá and Bucaramanga: if you can, come midweek.

How much Barichara costs

Item	Indicative price
Bus San Gil ↔ Barichara	6,000-7,600 pesos each way
Guane museum	about 5,000 pesos (older sources)
Set lunch (corrientazo)	15,000-25,000 pesos
Camino Real	free if you walk it on your own

Bring cash: many shops and smaller restaurants only take cash.

When to go

Barichara has a warm, dry climate during the day and is cooler in the evening. The driest months are December to February and July to August; in April-May and October-November it rains more often, usually in the afternoon. If you can, avoid Holy Week and long weekends, when the town fills up. For other regions, read when to go to Colombia.

Mistakes to avoid

• Setting off on the Camino Real at midday: the trail is almost all in the sun and the heat gets heavy.
• Not checking how to get back from Guane: buses are few, and walking back up in the heat is tiring.
• Only visiting on a day trip from San Gil: you can, but you miss the sunset light and the quiet of the evening.
• Walking in flip-flops: the stones in the streets and on the Camino Real are uneven and can be slippery.

Frequently asked questions

How do you get to Barichara?

From San Gil, on the local Cotrasangil bus from the Terminalito: about 45 minutes, for 6,000-7,600 pesos. You reach San Gil by bus from Bogotá (6-8 hours) or Bucaramanga (about 3 hours).

How long is the Camino Real from Barichara to Guane?

At a relaxed pace 2-3 hours, almost all downhill. Start early in the morning, bring water and sun protection, and check the bus times for the return from Guane beforehand.

How many days do you need in Barichara?

One for the town and one for the Camino Real to Guane. With an extra day you can add San Gil and its adventure sports.

Is it better to stay in Barichara or San Gil?

Barichara is prettier and quieter, especially in the evening; San Gil is cheaper and more convenient for rafting and other activities. Many travellers stay in Barichara and go to San Gil for the day.