Villa de Leyva

Villa de Leyva is the prettiest colonial town within reach of Bogotá: whitewashed houses, terracotta roofs, cobbled streets and a Plaza Mayor of about 14,000 square metres, one of the largest in South America, all in a semi-desert valley in Boyacá department, 3-4 hours from the capital. I’d give it 2 days: one for the town and one for the surroundings, with fossils, turquoise pools and convents. Here’s how to get there, what to see with prices and opening hours, where to stay and how to dodge the weekend crowds.

How to get from Bogotá to Villa de Leyva

By bus it’s easy and cheap. Buses leave from Terminal Salitre and, with some companies, from Terminal del Norte: the main ones are Libertadores, Flota Valle de Tenza, Coflonorte, Expreso Gaviota and Omega. The trip takes 3-4 hours and tickets cost about 43,000-55,000 pesos depending on the company and the day. There are only a few direct buses a day: if they’re full, take a bus to Tunja, which run very often, and from there a bus or minivan to Villa de Leyva, about an hour away.

By car it’s about 160-170 km (100-105 miles) and 3-4 hours, depending on traffic leaving Bogotá. If you’re driving you can stop at Zipaquirá to break up the journey.

The most convenient airport is El Dorado in Bogotá (BOG): from the airport, take a taxi to the bus terminal. All our tips on buses, terminals and apps are in the guide to getting around Colombia.

Getting around Villa de Leyva and the surroundings

The centre is easy to walk in a few minutes, but the cobbles are uneven: wear comfortable shoes and leave heavy wheeled cases behind if your place is far from the square. For the surroundings you have three options:

• Bike: the road to El Fósil and Ecce Homo is pleasant but hilly and very sunny; set off in the morning.
• Taxi: handy for several stops in half a day. Agree the price and the stops before you set off: one guide puts a return trip to El Fósil at about 30,000 pesos.
• Bus towards Santa Sofía: drops you about 80 metres from El Fósil museum, around 6 km (4 miles) from town. You can also walk there in just over an hour.

Many agencies in town also offer quad bike or horse riding trips: pick one with good reviews and ask what’s included.

What to see in Villa de Leyva

Place	What to expect	Price	Time
Plaza Mayor	the cobbled square with the parish church, the heart of town	free	1 hour, also at sunset
Casa Terracota	a house made entirely of fired clay, by architect Octavio Mendoza	33,000-43,000 pesos (guided tour 45,000-50,000)	1 hour
El Fósil museum	the fossil of a young kronosaurus, a marine reptile from about 120 million years ago, left where it was found	20,000-25,000 pesos	1 hour
Pozos Azules	small turquoise pools in the semi-desert landscape	10,000-15,000 pesos	1 hour
Ecce Homo convent	a Dominican convent in the countryside, with a cloister and fossils in the floor	about 10,000 pesos or a donation	45 minutes
Ráquira	the pottery town, full of colourful craft shops	free	half a day

The Plaza Mayor is the image of Villa de Leyva: standing in the middle, with the mountains behind the church, you can see why the town is a national monument. It was founded in 1572 and its historic centre has survived almost intact.

Casa Terracota is about a 20-25-minute walk from the square. The price varies between weekdays and weekends and between low and high season; children under 7 go free. Opening hours have changed several times: check them on the official website before you go.

El Fósil, the Pozos Azules and Ecce Homo all lie on the road heading west and combine well in a morning by taxi or bike. Near El Fósil there’s also the Muisca Astronomical Observatory (El Infiernito), a pre-Hispanic site with stone columns, if you’re into archaeology.

Ráquira is about 24 km away, 30-45 minutes by road. There are only a few minibuses a day, so for an easy half day a taxi or tour works better.

Where to stay in Villa de Leyva

Area	Best for	Pros	Cons
Centre, near the Plaza Mayor	first visit, travelling by bus	everything on foot, restaurants on your doorstep	pricier and noisy on Saturday nights
Edge of town (5-15 minutes’ walk)	peace and a garden	colonial houses with patios, lower prices	streets are dark at night, bring a torch or take a taxi
Countryside around town	couples, travelling by car	hotels with views, spas, silence	you depend on a car or taxi for everything

On booking sites, double rooms in posadas and simple hotels usually cost 80,000-170,000 pesos a night, boutique hotels 300,000-400,000 pesos and up. Prices rise sharply at weekends, on long holiday weekends and in December.

My advice: stay in the centre or a few blocks from the square if you arrive by bus, so you don’t need taxis in the evening. The countryside only makes sense if you have a car.

2-day Villa de Leyva itinerary

1. Day 1 – The town. Arrive mid-morning from Bogotá, have lunch and spend the afternoon around the Plaza Mayor and the streets of the centre. Mid-afternoon visit Casa Terracota (if it’s open) and head back to the square for sunset.
2. Day 2 – The surroundings. By taxi or bike early in the morning: El Fósil, the Muisca Observatory, the Pozos Azules and the Ecce Homo convent. Afternoon free in town or head back to Bogotá.

With a third day, add Ráquira in the morning and leave in the afternoon. For a longer trip around the region, with Bogotá, Barichara and San Gil, see our page on the Central Andes.

How much Villa de Leyva costs

Item	Typical price
Bus Bogotá – Villa de Leyva	43,000-55,000 pesos each way
Casa Terracota	33,000-43,000 pesos
El Fósil museum	20,000-25,000 pesos
Pozos Azules	10,000-15,000 pesos
Ecce Homo convent	about 10,000 pesos or a donation
Return taxi to El Fósil	about 30,000 pesos
Double room in a posada or simple hotel	80,000-170,000 pesos a night
Boutique hotel	300,000-400,000 pesos and up a night

Sources don’t always agree on entry prices, which is why you’ll see ranges: carry cash and check the price at the ticket desk.

When to visit Villa de Leyva

The best time is December to February and July to August, the driest months. Villa de Leyva sits at about 2,150 metres (7,050 ft), averaging 17 °C (63 °F): the sun is strong by day, while evenings and nights are cold. In April-May and October-November it rains more often, usually in the afternoon.

Two events worth knowing about: the wind and kite festival in August, and the Festival de Luces with fireworks on the square in early December, around the 7th-8th. They’re great fun, but the town fills up and rooms need booking well ahead. The weather in other regions is covered in our guide on when to visit Colombia.

Mistakes to avoid

• Turning up on the Friday of a long weekend without a booking. Rooms sell out and prices climb: go midweek if you can.
• Underestimating the sun. Above 2,000 metres in a dry valley you burn fast: sunscreen, a hat and water, especially if you’re cycling.
• Going to Casa Terracota without checking the hours. At some times of year it only opens on certain days of the week.
• Getting into a taxi without agreeing the price and stops. For trips around the area, settle it first: how many stops, how long it waits, how much in total.
• Leaving with too little cash. Entry fees, taxis and craft shops often only take cash.

Safety

Villa de Leyva is one of the most relaxed places in Colombia: you can walk around in the evening and the most common problem is petty theft on busy days. The basic rules still apply, such as keeping your phone in your pocket and choosing taxis and agencies with good reviews. All our advice is in the guide to safety in Colombia; for official advice, check GOV.UK or the US State Department before you travel.

FAQ

How many days do you need in Villa de Leyva?

Two days: one for the town and Casa Terracota, one for the surroundings with El Fósil, the Pozos Azules and the Ecce Homo convent. With a third day, add Ráquira.

How do you get from Bogotá to Villa de Leyva?

By bus from Terminal Salitre or Terminal del Norte, in 3-4 hours, with tickets from about 43,000-55,000 pesos. If there’s no direct bus, go to Tunja and take a bus or minivan from there.

Can you visit Villa de Leyva as a day trip from Bogotá?

You can, but with 6-8 hours of travel there and back you’ll have little time in town. I think it’s worth staying at least one night.

How much does Casa Terracota cost?

Adults pay between 33,000 and 43,000 pesos, depending on whether it’s a weekday or weekend and on the season; a guided tour costs 45,000-50,000 pesos. Children under 7 go free.

Is it cold in Villa de Leyva?

It’s warm in the sun during the day, but it gets much colder in the evening and at night: the average is about 17 °C (63 °F). Bring a jacket and a fleece.