Filandia, Quindío: getting there, things to do and where to stay

Filandia is a coffee town in Quindío, at about 1,900 metres, with colourful bahareque houses, painted wooden balconies and a square where locals gather in the evening. It’s similar to Salento but quieter and less touristy, which is why many people choose it as a base for exploring the Coffee Region. Half a day is enough to see it, but in my view it deserves a night. The August 2026 earthquake left some scars, but the town is open and visitors are welcome again. Here’s how to get there, what has changed since the earthquake, what to do and where to stay.

Filandia after the earthquake of 10 August 2026

On 10 August 2026 a magnitude 7.4 earthquake, with its epicentre near San José del Palmar in Chocó, hit Quindío hard. In Filandia it damaged many bahareque houses and some buildings in the centre. The Museo del Disco y de la Música was largely destroyed.

The most visible damage for visitors is to the Mirador Colina Iluminada, the town’s iconic lookout tower. After the earthquake the town council decided to demolish it along with the Casa del Artesano, then suspended the demolition: the Quindío government and the council have commissioned new surveys to decide whether to reinforce it or take it down. As of October 2026 the area around the lookout has reopened to visitors, with a symbolic 1,000-peso entry fee, but you can’t climb the tower.

Hotels, restaurants, cafés and coffee farms are operating. Tourism, however, has collapsed: according to the governor of Quindío, hotel occupancy in the region fell from 80% to 20%. Visiting Filandia and Salento today is also a practical way to help people who make a living from tourism.

How to get to Filandia

From Salento: there are direct jeeps and minibuses, taking about 40-50 minutes. Times change often: ask on the main square or at Salento’s bus terminal the day before.
From Armenia: frequent buses from the terminal, taking about an hour, for 8,000 pesos each way (2026 fares).
From Pereira: buses from the terminal, taking about an hour.
By air: the nearest airports are El Edén in Armenia and Matecaña in Pereira, with flights from Bogotá and Medellín. Both are about an hour away by road.
From Medellín: about 6-7 hours by bus, changing in Pereira.

To choose between buses and domestic flights, read getting around Colombia.

Things to see and do in Filandia

The square and the María Inmaculada church: the main square is the heart of the town, with the white church with grey domes and colourful houses all around. In the evening it’s full of families, cafés and sweet sellers.
The colourful streets: the streets around the square keep the typical houses of the Antioquian colonisation, with bahareque walls and doors and balconies painted in different colours. Filandia was founded in 1878 by settlers from Antioquia.
Bejuco baskets: Filandia is the town of cestería, baskets hand-woven from vines (bejuco), a tradition dating back to the Quimbaya, the area’s ancient inhabitants. Many craft families live in the San José neighbourhood; in the centre you’ll find shops where you can buy them.
Coffee: Filandia is part of the Coffee Cultural Landscape, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Farms in the surrounding hills run tours of a couple of hours, from plant to cup; in town there are several cafés serving local coffee. How to order and what to buy is in the guide to Colombian coffee.
The Mirador Colina Iluminada: the tower of wood and guadua bamboo, about 27 metres tall, offered a 360-degree view over Quindío, Risaralda and Valle del Cauca. It’s currently closed because of earthquake damage, but the surrounding area can be visited again.
The Barbas-Bremen reserve: a protected forest between Filandia and Pereira, home to red howler monkeys and many bird species. You visit it on a guided tour that starts early in the morning, on a trail of about 4 km; seeing the monkeys isn’t guaranteed. You can book a tour with agencies in town or online.
Tejo: Colombia’s traditional sport, throwing metal discs at targets with small explosive charges, is played in the town’s bars in the evening.

Filandia or Salento?

	Filandia	Salento
Atmosphere	quiet, more authentic	lively, very touristy
Cocora Valley	further away (about an hour and a half)	jeeps take 30 minutes from the square
Services	fewer restaurants and places to stay	more choice of hotels, restaurants and tours
Best for	travellers looking for calm and a lived-in town	those who want to hike the Cocora Valley at dawn

If it’s your first trip to the area and you want to see the Cocora Valley, stay in Salento and visit Filandia for half a day. If you want a quieter town and have already seen Cocora, stay in Filandia.

Itinerary: half a day or one night

Half a day from Salento

Early afternoon – transfer to Filandia and a walk through the colourful streets around the square.
Afternoon – the bejuco basket shops and a coffee at a café in town.
Sunset – a walk to the Mirador area and back to Salento before the last departures.

With one night

Day 1 – arrive in the afternoon, explore the town and spend the evening on the square, perhaps with a game of tejo.
Day 2 – a Barbas-Bremen tour at dawn or a coffee farm tour, then leave after lunch.

Where to stay in Filandia

Where	Pros	Cons
Centre, near the square	everything on foot, evening life	can be noisy at weekends
Farms and glamping nearby	peace and quiet, views of the coffee hills	you need a taxi to get into town
Salento (day trip)	more services, close to the Cocora Valley	you miss the evening in Filandia

Since the earthquake it’s worth reading the most recent reviews and, if you have any doubts about the building, asking the hotel directly.

How much Filandia costs

Item	Indicative price
Bus Armenia ↔ Filandia	8,000 pesos each way
Mirador area (tower closed)	1,000 pesos
Set lunch (corrientazo)	15,000-25,000 pesos
Coffee or Barbas-Bremen tour	varies, ask in town

Bring some cash: small shops and bars often don’t take cards.

When to go

The climate is cool all year round, much like Salento: daytime temperatures are around 18-20 °C (64-68 °F) and you’ll need a jumper in the evening. It rains in every season; the driest months are December to February and July to August, which are also the busiest with Colombian visitors. For other regions, read when to go to Colombia.

Mistakes to avoid

Counting on the view from the Mirador tower: the tower is currently closed because of earthquake damage.
Only coming in the morning: Filandia is at its best in the late afternoon and evening.
Missing the last bus to Salento or Armenia: there are fewer departures in the evening. Ask about the last one as soon as you arrive.
Using Filandia as a base for the Cocora Valley: it can be done, but with long transfers. Salento is more convenient for Cocora.

Frequently asked questions

How do you get from Salento to Filandia?

By direct jeep or minibus, in about 40-50 minutes. Times change often: ask on the square or at Salento’s bus terminal.

Can you visit Filandia after the earthquake?

Yes. The earthquake of 10 August 2026 damaged some buildings, but the town is open and hotels, restaurants and coffee farms are operating. The Mirador Colina Iluminada tower is closed pending surveys, while the area around it can be visited again.

How much time do you need for Filandia?

Half a day is enough for the town, but a night lets you enjoy the evening on the square and do a coffee or Barbas-Bremen tour the next morning.

Is it better to stay in Salento or Filandia?

Salento is more convenient for the Cocora Valley and has more services; Filandia is quieter and less touristy. If you want to see Cocora, stay in Salento and visit Filandia for half a day.

What to buy in Filandia?

Hand-woven bejuco baskets, the town’s craft speciality, and coffee from the surrounding farms.